and did not need much work. Very little paint wear, and
inserts
are level.
Audio
Output for a Subwoofer
I have found that all pins can use enhanced bass. This can be
done by adding a internal amplifier (such as on my
IJ), or by
increasing the gain
on the cab speaker (
TOTAN,
MM),
or by using an external powered sub (
Space Shuttle).
By coincidence, the Whirlwind ended up next to the Space Shuttle, so I
decided to use the same powered sub.
To enable this, I installed a mini audio jack in the same location as
the Space Shuttle. This was in one of the holes of
the cab
speaker grill. The output jack is simply wired to the cabinet
speaker terminals.

The output audio jack installed in the location with the most clearance
in the speaker cone - just off center.
The powered subwoofer
accepts a Left
and a Right channel input. I simply connected one pinball
machine
to Right, and the other to Left. The two audio streams are
mixed
together and sent to the sub. The end result was very
satisfying. When the machine now speaks "Whirlwind" in that
lowwww tone, it sounds very good. The thunder booms also
sound
much fuller without being loud.

The two pinball machines that use the subwoofer.
Making
protectors
There are several places where the plastics were broken on
the
Whirlwind. As with my other machines, I made protectors for
those
locations out of Lexan.

This plastic is often broken on the right hand side in this
image. I made
a protector for that side, and the side over the scoop (left).

Although not broken, I also made protectors for the long thin plastics
on either side of the up/down ramp. Someone sent me a picture
of his Whirlwind that had one of these broken into half, so
I figured that it was worth it.
The other places where I
made
protectors are not shown, but they include the upper corner of the
plastic that holds the right red flasher, and the slings.
When I purchased these, I appeared to have obtained the last that Bay
Area Amusement had. When I checked the next week, they all
showed
out of stock.
Front
cabinet damage repair
There was a hole in the front of the cabinet that was
repaired
with epoxy. The artwork was restored with acrylic paint and
waterslide graphics.

Original state of hole near "Start" button.
The hole was repaired by
filling it
with epoxy using a small mixing stick as the aplicator. As
the
material started to slump, I quickly put a piece of clear tape on the
lower half of the hole as a form. I then continued to fill
the
hole, and finished it with a second piece covering the open
area.
The result was a nice, flat repair with no sanding needed.

Hole repaired and printing replaced.
I then used acrylic paint to fill in the orange and yellow
parts.
The yellow was "Ceramcoat Bright Yellow", and the orange was "Decoart
Pumpkin Orange". I have used these paints before on other
Williams cabs, and the color match is perfect.
Finally, I photographed the area, and used Photoshop to extract the
black, and filled in the missing text. I then printed the art
onto a piece of waterslide paper, and applied the "art"
lettering. The result is not perfect, but pretty
good. It
is not noticeably different when viewed casually.
Power-up Knock
On a few occasions (once every 10-20 times), when I
power-up the
machine, the knocker in the backbox makes a loud "Clack".
This is
a
fairly
common occurrence with System 11 machines, so I decided to
investigate this. Note that this knock occurs as soon as the
power switch is flipped, and way before the CPU board boots
up.
Thus it is
not
related to a diagnostic code report from the CPU board.

Scope trace of the knock.
Channel 1 (yellow): AC line @ F4 fuse.
Channel 2 (blue): Solenoid B+.
Channel 3 (pink):CPU 5V supply.
Channel 4 (green): Q23 base.
The knock occurs during the long high pulse of the green line.
The scope plot above
shows the
occurrence of the knock on power-up. The key is the pulse on
the
green line, which is the voltage on the base of the Q23 Darlington
driver transistor. When this is above about 1.2V, there is enough base
drive to forward bias the transistor, and the Solenoid B+ (blue) dives
down as the coil fires. At some point, the CPU's supply
voltage
rises above about 2.25V, the green pulse is then shut off, and the coil
releases. The solenoid B+ does not recover until the other
half
wave (positive on fuse F5) charges the supply back up.
When we look at the driver circuit below, we see why this is
happening. As the CPU's 5V rises, U19 has not powered up yet,
and
does not ground its output. As a result, the 560 Ohm
pull-up, and the Q19 predriver, apply enough
voltage to
turn on Q23. It is only when the 5V rises above about 2.25V
that
U19 wakes up and pulls its output low. At that point, the
knock
is terminated.

The driver for the knocker on Whirlwind is Solenoid 6.